Cavalry Twill Guide

Cavalry twill is a firm cloth recognised by its steep double diagonal ribs. Traditionally woven from wool for riding and military trousers, it is valued for durability, shape retention and a clean drape.

How it differs from ordinary twill

All twills show diagonal structure, but cavalry twill has pronounced, closely set ribs that create a compact surface. It is generally firmer than flannel and smoother than moleskin or corduroy.

Benefits for trousers

• Durability: the dense construction withstands friction and regular wear.
• Shape: the cloth holds a crease and hangs neatly through the leg.
• Warmth: wool cavalry twill is useful for autumn and winter without the raised nap of flannel.
• Versatility: it works with tweed jackets, knitwear, blazers, brogues and country boots.

Cavalry twill in modern clothing

Traditional versions are pure wool, while modern trousers may use cotton or blended fibres to alter weight, stretch and care. Similar firm twills are also used for chinos and country trousers, so the product composition should be checked rather than relying on appearance alone.

Livingston links

Browse Meyer Trousers, Gardeur Trousers, Bruhl Trousers and the Livingston Cloth & Tailoring Guide. For a more textured country alternative, read about Moleskin, Corduroy and Flannel.

Care

Pure wool cavalry twill should be brushed and rested between wears. Press with care so the surface is not marked. Cotton and blended versions may be washable, but always follow the label.

Return to the Fabrics, Weaves & Finishes Guide.