The hidden work that goes into a bespoke suit‪

Bespoke tailoring involves far more work than the finished garment reveals. These photographs from the Livingston archive show patterns, fittings, tweed, tartan and work from the tailoring room, preserving a record of the craft behind garments made by G Livingston & Son.

Inside the work of a bespoke suit

A finished suit hides much of the work that gives it shape. Pattern work, fitting, pressing and hand finishing all happen before the garment reaches the customer.

What bespoke tailoring involves

In Livingston's archive description of the bespoke process, each garment begins with an individually created pattern cut for the wearer. During a bespoke fitting, the tailor can take upwards of 40 measurements before the garment moves through fitting and construction.

The same archive notes that over 80 hours of work goes into a bespoke suit. The choices begin before cloth is cut: the occasion, the time of year, whether an event is indoors or outdoors, and whether the suit is intended for one occasion or regular wear all help determine the garment.

The old article describes the same attention being applied to overcoats, two-piece and three-piece suits, with cloth choices including velvet, house tweeds and worsteds.

Bespoke patterns

This archive photograph records a new bespoke pattern being prepared in the Livingston tailoring room. An individually cut pattern is one of the defining parts of bespoke work and provides the starting point for fitting and construction.

Tartan trews

The archive also includes MacMillan tartan trews, part of Livingston's long connection with Scottish cloth, tartan and made-to-measure tailoring.

Fittings and cloth

An H. Lesser birdseye fitting is another snapshot of the fitting process. Cloth choice and fit are judged together as the garment takes shape.

Tweed has been a recurring part of the Livingston tailoring archive, from country suits to sports jackets and bespoke commissions.

Work in the tailoring room

One old caption simply read, ‘Sunday shift, no rest for the wicked.’ It is a small but useful glimpse of the hours behind the finished work.

Porter & Harding tweed

Porter & Harding tweed also appears in the archive, showing another traditional Scottish cloth used for Livingston tailoring.

Tartan tailoring beyond menswear

The archive includes a bias tartan ladies coat as well, showing that the workshop's tailoring has not been limited to men's suits and jackets.

Head cutter Dave

Head cutter Dave is part of the people behind this archive of patterns, fittings and finished garments.

More from the Livingston tailoring archive

For two of the strongest stories from the archive, read about the 1954 Tailor & Cutter Competition Gold Medal jacket and a Livingston bespoke suit fitting following the George Brummell trunk show in China.